WANT TO MODEL? GET AN AGENT!
THE TEENY BOPPER STROLLING DOWN BREACH Candy sports a Madhu Sapre haircut and aspires for Sushmita Sen’s poise. Every other girl would like to be in Aishwarya Rai’s shoes. And most college girls would not think twice about spending their annual pocket money and their savings on getting a portfolio done.
Dreams, dreams and more dreams. While some come true, others die a frustrated death. Those who have the potential and the drive, make it, those who don’t get misled and go astray. Or worse, end up doing the wrong kind of assignments.
Modelling is not child’s play, however. Seldom do people realise all that it entails before jumping onto the modelling bandwagon. Without proper guidance and a balanced head on one’s shoulders, models can let all that glamour, fame, money and fast life go to their heads, making them empty, shallow people only obsessed with their looks. The modelling industry has grown into a big time one without the required infrastructure to streamline it and bring in some degree of discipline and professionalism. There are constant complaints from the models about getting duped, being underpaid or worse, not being paid at all, losing out on contracts due to favouritism etc. Coordinators and choreographers on the other hand, complain of a lack of professionalism, unpunctuality and tantrums on the part of models.
India has functioned without agencies all this while. Abroad, a model gets work via agencies and the clients get the models via the agencies too. Hopefully, this will be the trend in India soon. SAVVY spoke to the directors of the world’s leading modelling agencies as well as to the director of the only Indian counterpart to get a clearer picture.
WHAT IT TAKES TO BE A MODEL
It is not enough being a pretty face to make it as a model. According to Eileen Ford, director, Ford Models Inc., “Good height, nice, strong, shapely legs, clear skin texture and stunning looks are important. The girl must have the ability to exude a camera friendly personality and be an extrovert.”
Paula Whiteman, director, Elite Premier Ltd., London, lists her requirements. “Girls should be between the ages of fourteen and twenty-one to start modelling. (One can always start while at college without it interfering with your studies.) Height should be 5’ 8’’ or more. A well-proportioned body and a clear skin without scars is a must. The ideal statistics should be 34b-24-35. But there are many models who do not have these statistics yet are extremely successful. Equally important is the right personality. Modelling is a job that demands commitment, hard work, discipline and an ability to get along with various kinds of people. Some of those people will inevitably be difficult so you have to maintain a great sense of humour to endure some of the nonsense that comes your way. An ability to laugh it off and a resilient, cheerful disposition is essential. To be able to accept criticism, take rejection gracefully and to work long hours without complaining will get you far.”
Kaye Khan of Mystique Modelling Agency (a mainstream agency that represents Asian girls in London) insists on versatility and the right attitude while Josy Fonseca, director of Models looks for “a photogenic face, with a disciplined focussed attitude to work combined with a hunger to succeed and a confidence in front of the camera.”
If one compares these standards with the new faces discovered by Models Plus, the Indian agency, then the newcomers sadly fall short of expectations. They are not very impressive, to say the least. Reshma Shetty, director, Models Plus, defends them saying, “Give them a break, they are all so new right now. Besides, we are not scouting for great lookers alone. Even if an aspirant has one great asset like good hair, good fingers or a good smile, it’s enough. Today, clients require only certain features for their products to sell.”
THE X FACTOR
Never mind what the cynics say, there is that special something which sets aside certain people from the rest of the hoi polloi. A magic appeal, a certain aura, or as the Americans say, chutzpah is what makes an attractive face striking and a pretty face beautiful. What is this factor that makes the Naomi Campbells, Christy Turlingtons and Aishwarya Rais stand out from the rest of the crowd? Is it just a lovely face? A great body? No. The X factor is that undefinable something. You either have it or you don’t. Eileen Ford succinctly sums up the X factor as “something that is in totality. The X factor is very difficult to define. A model need not be body perfect or a classic beauty; a beautiful girl with good body attributes could be a winning ticket. My suggestion to a debutante would be to go out and try. She may not know she has the factor which we are looking for.”
Paula describes it as, “The ability to come alive in front of the camera, a good personality and a beautiful face. It is a combination of all three.” The special something which makes you stand out — be it a photogenic face, a classic bone structure or sex appeal — you’ve got to be striking enough to make an impact, preferably a lasting one.
THE RIGHT ATTITUDE
Modelling is a people based industry and the ability to communicate well and strike a rapport without malicious bitching, bad-mouthing etc speaks volumes for the model besides it giving her a positive reputation. What would it take for a model to be able to strike the right balance between assertive confidence and ambition? Says Paula, “Models at any level have to understand that they are a product like any other product that is being sold. The main difference is that the model is a human being and as such is capable of emotions which can sometimes interfere with the sale. A poor attitude and unprofessional behaviour can turn an otherwise good career sour. Personality is a major factor in deciding whether a girl can survive in the industry. One must assume that a model will interact with clients in the same manner that she interacts with the agent. Many models have been signed who may not have had a look that was immediately believed in, but have sold themselves on their motivation and personality. It is important to develop an enthusiastic, dependable, positive reputation early on in one’s career. That reputation follows her throughout her life. Clients look for a personality and a professional attitude they can work with. Everyone wants to have a pleasant day after all. Nobody wants to work with someone who is labelled a bitch and that includes designers, photographers, choreographers, magazines, makeup artists, hairdressers and especially other models. These people can make or break a girl’s career.”
Part of having the right attitude is also, as Josy puts it, “Not just being the right type of person for the job, it is also being someone the rest of the team likes. If you’re rude or uptight, they are just not gonna bother. It is too competitive, so you have to be professional. You have to be punctual, on the ball and aware of what you’ve got to do. You have have to be pretty thorough.”
Paula lists traits like terrible haircuts, excess weight and bad skin as physical taboos. Taking care of one’s looks and figure is also very important. Josy insists that, “A model should stay away from page three kind of glamour. Don’t do semi-nude pictures unless you are working with a very, very good photographer, the semi-nude pictures are within the context of the fashion story, they give you beautiful pictures and it is a very reputed, respectable magazine. You’ve got to be careful. How you take close-ups, who you’re taking them for and what you’re doing. It could ruin your career if you are doing it for the wrong people.”
Sometimes the wrong attitude towards money can put people off a model. Being greedy, charging more and delivering less than promised keeps people in the business away from the model. What ought to be the right attitude towards money? A sensible and responsible attitude to money (as in wise investments and savings) is important but as Eileen says, “Money may not be the only yardstick of success but it is absolutely necessary in this profession; it is an expensive business.” While Josy thinks a rigid attitude about money is not right. “A lot of fees are negotiable especially when you are starting. Money has a very attractive side to it but initially you have to be flexible.” Kaye too believes that “a model should be easy where money is concerned, at least till she is established.”
Unlike abroad where all the top models sign up with different agencies, none of the professional models here have joined Reshma’s Models Plus. She has several new faces whom she plans to get work for — with her agency functioning like the ones abroad — complete with portfolios done and identity cards. But she does not plan to groom them or teach them about modelling. She, however, does insist on telling the girls to “join a gym and eat the right food because no matter how fabulous they look, they have to look fresh for a shoot. We do not have any grooming facilities but we strongly feel that health awareness should come from within.”
INDIAN MODELS GOING INTERNATIONAL
While Anjali Mendes may become Pierre Cardin’s inspiration and Sushmita Sen and Aishwarya Rai may go on to win international beauty pageants, Indian models have yet to make an impact on the international scene. The media here is quite aware of Linda Evangelista, Christy Turlington, Claudia Schiffer and Cindy Crawford but how many people here know of Madhu Sapre, Mehr Jesia, Milind Soman or Arjun Rampal. Why is it so? Naomi Campbell is a successful black model but well-scrubbed pretty faces like Cindy’s are still the order of the day. Is there no market abroad for Indian beauty or does the Indian model lack in any way, besides the white skin of course? Eileen whose Ford Models Inc. has signed up with Inovision Communications (an Indian company) to look for a supermodel in India feels that Indian models too can make it big internationally. “I’m sure there’s a Naomi, a Christy out there in India and when Latinos, East Europeans, Africans and Orientals can do it, why not Indians? Kaye believes that, “Indian models despite being short compared to international standards, have what it takes. But they don’t assert themselves. A little laidback, they are not ready to put in the required hard work. A lot of lovely Indian girls come to me but they think they can sit at home and the phones will ring. It doesn’t work that way.”
Josy who has worked with Indian models like Madhu Sapre, Milind Soman and Mehr Jesia says, “I think Indian models have enormous potential. They have great skin and hair. I did take Indian models — Madhu, Milind and Mehr and they were fabulous. They got homesick but the other two stuck on and did very well. We’d like Indian models but I would go for British Indian girls because models from India have a problem getting a work permit. The plus points which Asian girls have are that they are hungry, ambitious and hardworking. The down point is that there is not a big market for Asian girls. I can’t explain why but it is a fact. It’s surprising because even in America there is only one Asian model — Yasmin Gauri. But the way things are changing in India, the changes are definitely gonna influence the world.”
Paula too feels that there is no demand for Asian models. “Unfortunately, the demand for ethnic models whether Black, Oriental or Asian has never been great in the UK but the trend is slowly changing. Black and Asian models tend to work in fashion — mainly editorial, shows advertising and commercials. The catalogue market being stricter in its ways is resistant to change. However, modelling is constantly in a state of flux and a girl should never be disheartened. The rise in cosmetic ranges for ethnic models is also a plus point for Asian models. Traditionally, cosmetic contracts are where the big money is and larger companies are finally realising that there is a huge and very lucrative market out there to conquer.”
The ladies also believe that Asian models have a longer…
Paula lists traits like terrible haircuts, excess weight and bad skin as physical taboos. Taking care of one’s looks and figure is also very important. Josy insists that, “A model should stay away from page three kind of glamour. Don’t do semi-nude pictures unless you are working with a very, very good photographer, the semi-nude pictures are within the content of the fashion story, they give you beautiful pictures and it is a very reputed, respectable magazine. You’ve got to be careful. How you take close-ups, who you’re taking them for and what you’re doing. It could ruin your career if you are doing it for the wrong people.”
Sometimes the wrong attitude towards money can put people off a model. Being greedy, charging more and delivering less than promised keeps people in the business away from the model. What ought to be the right attitude towards money? A sensible and responsible attitude to money (as in wise investments and savings) is important but as Eileen says, “Money may not be the only yardstick of success but it is absolutely necessary in this profession; it is an expensive business.” While Josy thinks a rigid attitude about money is not right. “A lot of fees are negotiable especially when you are starting. Money has a very attractive side to it but initially you have to be flexible.” Kaye too believes that “a model should be easy where money is concerned, at least till she is established.”
Unlike abroad where all the top models sign up with different agencies, none of the professional models here have joined Reshma’s Models Plus. She has several new faces whom she plans to get work for — with her agency functioning like the ones abroad — complete with portfolios done and identity cards. But she does not plan to groom them or teach them about modelling. She, however, does insist on telling the girls to “join a gym and eat the right food because no matter how fabulous they look, they have to look fresh for a shoot. We do not have any grooming facilities but we strongly feel that health awareness should come from within.”
INDIAN MODELS GOING INTERNATIONAL
While Anjali Mendes may become Pierre Cardin’s inspiration and Sushmita Sen and Aishwarya Rai may go on to win international beauty pageants, Indian models have yet to make an impact on the international scene. The media here is quite aware of Linda Evangelista, Christy Turlington, Claudia Schiffer and Cindy Crawford but how many people here know of Madhu Sapre, Mehr Jesia, Milind Soman or Arjun Rampal. Why is it so? Naomi Campbell is a successful black model but well-scrubbed pretty faces like Cindy’s are still the order of the day. Is there no market abroad for Indian beauty or does the Indian model lack in any way, besides the white skin of course? Eileen whose Ford Models Inc. has signed up with Inovision Communications (an Indian company) to look for a supermodel in India feels that Indian models too can make it big, internationally. “I’m sure there’s a Naomi, a Christy out there in India and when Latinos, East Europeans, Africans and Orientals can do it, why not Indians? Kaye believes that, “Indian models despite being short compared to international standards, have what it takes. But they don’t assert themselves. A little laidback, they are not ready to put in the required hard work. A lot of lovely Indian girls come to me but they think they can sit at home and the phones will ring. It doesn’t work that way.”
Josy who has worked with Indian models like Madhu Sapre, Milind Soman and Mehr Jesia says, “I think Indian models have enormous potential. They have great skin and hair. I did take Indian models — Madhu, Milind and Mehr and they were fabulous. My honest subject the other two stuck on and did very well. We’d like Indian models but I would go for British Indian girls because models from India have a problem getting a work permit. The plus points which Asian girls have are that they are hungry, ambitious and hardworking. The down point is that there is not a big market for Asian girls. I can’t explain why but it is a fact. It’s surprising but even in America there is only one Asian model — Yasmin Gauri. But the way things are changing in India, the changes are definitely gonna influence the world.”
Paula too feels that there is no demand for Asian models. “Unfortunately, the demand for ethnic models whether Black, Oriental or Asian has never been great in the UK but the trend is slowly changing. Black and Asian models tend to work in fashion — mainly editorial, shows advertising and commercials. The catalogue market being rather set in its ways is resistant to change. However, modelling is constantly in a state of flux and a girl should never be disheartened. The rise in cosmetic ranges for ethnic models is also a plus point for Asian models. Traditionally, cosmetic contracts are where the big money is and larger companies are finally realising that there is a huge and very lucrative market out there to conquer.”
The ladies also believe that Asian models can have a longer career due to their skin which doesn’t age very fast. Though Eileen does feel that “Indian girls need better grooming, training, promotion and of course international exposure.”
THE ROLE OF AN AGENCY
An agency then would be a boon to models as it would bring in a certain discipline and professionalism. Kaye believes that, “A lot of Asian models are exploited. In fact, a lot of them have requested me to open an agency in India. It is important to have an agent to look after the models’ as well as the clients’ interests because they both develop a rapport with the agent.” Josy too insists on an agent albeit “the right one. The agent looking after the model’s work must know what he or she is doing otherwise they can be more of a hazard than a help.”
Stressing on the necessity of an agent, Paula says, “If you view a model like a product, then an agent acts as her advertising agency and it is vital to have one. No matter what the source, if a product is being talked about or seen, it is being advertised. A model is advertised through photographers, makeup artists, hairdressers, stylists and most importantly through her portfolio. An agent is the gateway to utilising these forms of advertising. They have the contacts and they can get these people to see a model. Without an agent, in London, Europe or America, many photographers will not even see a model. Most important, the model will not even get to hear of the photographers or companies and when they are casting, they always ask the agency to suggest a girl.”
Keeping these views in mind, one cannot help but doubt the credibility of Reshma’s agency. Reshma has a B Com degree and five years of model coordination behind her. Rumour has it that the agency charged each girl Rs 10,000 for her portfolio and that several of them were shot in one day. Reshma affirms, “It’s true, we did shoot five to six portfolios a day. But we are giving the girls prints, contact sheets and their own photocard — it is something like an identity card with all their details on it. I have always wanted to do something for aspiring, ambitious girls and boys and most of the newcomers did not have the proper channels they could go through, so Models Plus was created and here I am.”
AFTER MODELLING WHAT?
Modelling is a lot like a shooting star. It shoots up, has a short blaze of glory and fizzles out before you know it. The money one makes is good but certainly not enough to last a lifetime. Secondly, it spoils you for other careers because very few professions pay so much money for the number of hours put in. What are the options a model has? For that matter when should she retire? Says Paula, “There is no set age a model should retire at. If she is canny and has managed herself well, she can continue modelling for a long time. Look at Jerry Hall and Iman. Alternatively, today’s model finds that the experience she has gained and the contacts she has made can lead to a career in acting, fashion design, styling, photography, magazine journalism and many other fields. With the knowledge that models gain of marketing and the media they may even want to start their own business — many models do. There are agencies that specialise in older models for catalogue and advertising work. There are numerous fields but it is as much about the confidence that the girl develops through modelling.”
Josy too feels there is no age limit as such and a girl can be successful in any field provided she has the required qualifications.“We have models who have become psychiatrists, fashion designers, fashion designers, actresses… they can get into any field. But you have to be bright to make it to the top because you are basically managing all by yourself.” Eileen reiterates, “Films, television, PR, politics, agencies, community service… the avenues are endless but one must choose something interesting and fulfilling. There is no age as such to retire; at Ford we have a segment called Ford Women, which includes women who are graceful, experienced models in their thirties and they are still active in the profession. Retirement is way to go.”
Hopefully, Models Plus will now usher in a new trend of models and clients operating via agencies. Perhaps, more people from within the industry will set up agencies like the ones abroad. Maybe, models will themselves set up agencies and have a career alternative after they have stopped modelling. But there is no denying the fact that with modelling zooming into the limelight as one of the most sought after professions, an agency seems to be the need of the hour. Judging by the response, it couldn’t have come at a more appropriate time. If the future, agencies do manage to bring in a degree of professionalism and safeguard the models’ interests, they will be a welcome addition to the media. And maybe, our own Indian versions of the Naomis, Claudias and Christys will rule the modelling world!”
Written by MINAL KHONA
(with inputs from Kevin Rego, London and Kainaz Jussawalla, Bombay)